Griffins and goats in roundels, block print fabric, natural indigo

Product description

Sturdy twill print fabric with 12th–13th century Romanesque pattern. It is printed with an ancient block print technique and dyed blue with real indigo. Use it for historical costumes, casual wear, accessories, and interiors.

Origin and pattern

The pattern is derived from a medieval textile from the 12th to 13th century, fragments of which were recovered in the German Rhineland at Siegburg and are now in the collection of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Budapest. The original was also linen. It had a silver print and was probably intended to resemble a silver brocade with a similar motif.

This linen fabric is decorated with a medieval pattern of roundels encircling pairs of griffins and goats. The motif conveys deep symbolic meaning:

• THE GRIFFIN, a mythical creature combining the strength of the eagle and lion, represents courage and protection, while
• THE GOAT stands for fertility and vitality. Together, they express a harmonic blend of strength and vital energy.

Such designs were popular for clothing and interiors in this period and played aesthetic as well as symbolic roles.

This is a go-to fabric for historical re-enactment and period dress. Put it to use in authentic medieval costumes, Byzantine and Viking dress, and garments in the Kievan Rus style.

This pattern reconstruction is the intellectual property of SARTOR BOHEMIA.

Printed textiles in the Middle Ages

In the Middle Ages, richly patterned fabrics were signifiers of luxury, power and prestige reserved for the upper crust. These precious textiles, symbols of power and wealth, were often bestowed as diplomatic gifts and were also prized as spoils of war. Brocade designs were woven into the cloth itself, a process that was both time consuming and costly.

Printing a design onto fabric instead of weaving it in was an affordable alternative that was more widely accessible. Prints were largely inspired by the ornate brocades of the time. Textile printing techniques began spreading in Europe from Asia in the 12th and 13th centuries.

Hand printing with wood blocks

Block printing is a traditional craft in which designs are hand carved onto wood blocks (both large and small) and transferred onto fabric. In India, block printing has been used since ancient times and is an indelible part of the cultural heritage not only there but also in Europe, for example in Spain, France, and in Bohemia too (where it takes the form of the traditional craft known as blue print).

The first written mention of this technique being used in Europe comes from 15th century Florence in a trade record listing block printed linen fabric. However, fragments of print fabrics in museum collections date as early as the 12th century.

Here the pattern has been printed using the original technique – the fabric is printed with hand carved wood blocks and with natural indigo. The process results in a one-of-a-kind print with small imperfections that only add to its charm.  It should be remembered that to preserve its natural qualities, the fabric has not been chemically treated to set the dye and is not color fast – some dye may rub off on items it comes into contact with.

What is indigo

Natural indigo comes from the indigo plant, Indigofera tinctoria, which grows in subtropical regions. Cultures in various parts of the globe dye with indigo; it has strong traditions in Japan, India, and Africa. In fact, natural indigo was widely used to dye the denim used for jeans back when they were still just working trousers. Of course, the dyeing process can be quite finicky and is really best left to an expert.

Twill weave

Twill weave fabric is characterized by a weave texture with a distinct diagonal stripe. Probably the most known twill fabric today is denim, which embodies the two main qualities of twill – strength and elasticity. Twill fabrics keep their shape because a twill weave holds better and is less prone to loosen up than a plain weave.

Fine twill fabrics made of silk or synthetic fibers, often referred to by the French term serge, are great choices for scarves, dresses, and sturdy, lightweight linings. Thicker fibers, like linen or cotton, make a sturdy fabric that is ideal for seam-stressed garments like pants and blazers.

Uses

This 100% linen twill is sturdy and will not stretch out of shape.

It is easy to sew with and makes neat pleats, darts, and seams. Here the historically authentic print makes it perfect for historical clothing and cosplay, but it can work equally well for contemporary fashion too.

Classic blue and white would look fresh on wide-legged pants or a boxy minimalist blazer. You might play around a bit, combine with solids, and not just blue, but black or red too.

Optimistic blue and white can perk up an interior too – try cushions or floor-length curtains. This fabric combines well with blue, white, and earthy neutral tones.

Sewing ideas

• Historical clothing and cosplay
• Summer pants
• Simple blazer
• Cushions and throw pillows (see our throw pillow tutorial)
• Floor-length curtains (see how to sew curtains on our blog)

Care

Because natural indigo bleeds, wash cold (max 30°C) either alone or with dark colors. To set the color, add vinegar to the wash cycle. Slight color bleeding is not a defect but a characteristic of natural indigo. Some color may rub off even when dry, marking light-colored fabrics or handbags that it comes into contact with (as with new jeans). Iron on the linen setting, with or without steam, from the back.